Last week we had dinner at restaurant Choux, located in a bright red building very close to Central Station in Amsterdam boardering “het IJ” the water that seperates the centre of town with the up and coming Northern part.
The restaurant is run bij Figo van Onna and Merijn van Berlo formerly from the very popular but temporary venues Repéré and Foyer on the canals. Choux however is here to stay. So how to describe the food they serve? The menu lists only four ingredients per dish leaving much to the imagination of the guest but be prepared to be surprised in a positive way. Choosing to work with sustainable produce from the continent they give centre stage to vegetables, letting the humble ingredients shine by serving them in surprisingly different ways. For example by juicing, fermenting, smoking and drying them.
Equally surprising is the duo’s choice to serve only natural wines, the “vins naturels” , which in general are organic wines that are produced without adding or removing anything during winemaking resulting in a very pure product that, in this case, highlights the food in stead of overpowering it.
So what did we have?
We decided to go for the 7-course menu consisting of smaller versions of the à la carte dishes that by the way can also be transformed into an all out vegetarian, equally well executed version.
I’ll describe a few
Cured and charred cod with some raw fennel, seaweeds, squid ceviche, juice of fermented apple and lovage oil. A dish full of energy with depth and texture, paired with a refreshing dry Muscat from French Catalunya, what a start! After a great tartare with crab followed the morel mushrooms. A fantastic dish consisting of some panfried gnocchi and morels, sweet peas, toasted hazelnuts and some foam of the morels. Next to it a fabulous ripe and fruity Elzas blend, consisting of Gewurtztraminer, Pinot Gris, Auxerrois and Muscat. And what about that succulent roulade of rabbit? Wonderfully complex with some wilted bitter greens, tarte tatin of onion, roasted baby carrots and pickled mustard seeds. The sommeliers pick, a Chiroubles, was elegant and delicate, matching the bittersweet dish perfectly.
After being served a great combo of Brillat Savarin cheese with beetroot, poppy seed and rose – with a interesting saké – we had a very imaginative and refreshing final course. Raw celeryheart and green apple, cucumber jus, lemon verbena, buttermilk mousse and sorrel sorbet resetting my tastebuds
De Ruyterkade 128, Amsterdam,
T: + 31 (0)6220.127.116.11